HYDROTHERAPY - Britain's hardest DWS?
On 14th August 2011, I climbed a new DWS called Hydrotherapy, 8a+ / S2 in the Hollow Caves Bay area of Pembroke. The route is located in a huge cave, just to the right of Ben Bransby’s unrepeated trad E7 Underworld. I discovered the line last year whilst climbing a new 7b+ called Submariner (which was filmed by Alastair Lee for his Movie, Psyched II).
Hydrotherapy required more effort and determination than any other DWS that I have climbed before. It took me four trips from London in order to get all the necessary variables to balance. The cave dries out in the last three hours of daylight, (providing there’s evening sun) and this needs to correlate with high tide, calm seas and the Range not being closed for firing practice! Frustratingly, I found myself without a climbing partner on two days that would have been ideal for an attempt.
The route is tricky to access, and I solved this by rigging a tryrolean traverse from the Western flank into the back of the cave. From here an easy traverse leads into the line, which is continuously overhanging at an angle of about fifty degrees. The style of climbing is power-endurance with two definite cruxes, the first is about V7 (a drop-knee allows you to connect a tiny left hand crimp to a sloping right hand side-pull) and the second maybe V6 (matching a high under-cut). There’s also a bit of a ‘last move’ to gain the finishing jugs which lead into the final chimney of Underworld.
I would love to have tried the route ground-up but for me it was out of the question. It took me ages to work out the sequence on an abseil rope, and the conditions window is so narrow that I reckon I would still be falling off the first, relatively easy section in about five years time if I’d tried it from the ground! In addition, the cave has a big and serious feel to it. The logistics are different to venues like Lulworth or Connor Cove, which have more of a sport-vibe. It would be amazing if it was repeated ground-up and I reckon Steve Mac would crush it!
Regarding the grade, I’ve noticed a tendency for trad routes and DWS’s to be given over-inflated French grades, so I thought I’d attempt to reign things in a bit. My Devon route Cutlass felt hard at the time, because I climbed it ground-up, but it’s probably a soft 8a+. However I’m pretty sure that Hydrotherapy represents the top of the grade. It’s certainly the hardest DWS I’ve ever done, as a combination of physical difficulty, logistics and position.
NG’S PEMBROKE DWS NEW ROUTES LIST (from 2010 & 2011)
HOLLOW CAVES BAY - Underworld cave
High Spring tides are required for optimum DWS conditions and note that the cave only dries out in late afternoons
Submariner 7b+ / S1 *** 8.10
Approach as for Beaucoup Fish but continue traversing another fifteen feet to a 'porthole'. Wild juggy moves lead from this to another hole, and a tricky exit on crimps where the wall 'barrels' round. Traverse rightwards onto easier ground to avoid the finish of Underworld.
Hydrotherapy 8a+ / S2 *** 9.11
The bulging wall to the right of Underworld is one of Britain's toughest DWS challenges, offering superb and very hard climbing in a serious setting. Approach by 'dry bag' swimming, or rigging a tyrolean traverse from the North Eastern flank of the cave (anchor rope at low tide). Start as for Underworld and make an easy rising rightwards traverse above the lip of a lower subsidiary cave, to below a large vertical slot. Tackle the impending steepness above via two distinct cruxes, and make a wild leftwards traverse at the lip to gain the exit chimney of Underworld.
FORBIDDEN HEAD
The leaning flowstone wall has now become a major DWS landmark for Pembroke. High Spring tides are required. Dry conditions are common.
Occams Razor 7c+ / S1 *** 9.11
The immaculate knife-edged, battleship arete is climbed on its steeper right-hand side via a wild 'fridge hugging' sequence. Approach by abseiling down slabs to the West (as for Iron Pirate 6c+) and make a short sea level traverse (crossing the base of the groove of Iron Pirate) to gain a 'hand'rail' ledge which leads to the arete. Swing round and go for it. Escapable at several points, but you'll know if you've avoided the challenge!
Pollinator 8a / S1 *** 9.11
The direct finish to Gav Symonds’ route, Imposterbee (7c+) has all the makings of a modern DWS classic. This route climbs the centre of the steep, leaning face at Forbidden Head. Approach by abseiling down the corner to the right of the wall (taken by 'Fooled by a Smile' E5) In-situ threads assist with this. Start at the base of a shallow chimney/groove with a layback flake which runs up the lower half of the right-hand side of the main face. Climb the groove line until it peters out at a large hole (good knee-bar rest). Move left to a smaller rightwards-facing flake and make a hard move to gain the break at two-thirds height. From the break a very hard crux leads directly to the exit cracks. A relatively safe proposition at high spring tides, but check water levels carefully.
LYDSTEP
Excalibur 8a *** 8.10
The obvious arch, described as a project in Mike Robertson’s Deep Water Solo guide, which offers compelling climbing in a magnificent situation. Scramble down the western flank and traverse in (heading eastwards). A steep, juggy start up a flakeline leads to a rest ledge. From here, very hard moves lead through the roof and around the lip to an easy and enjoyable finish up the headwall.
Hydrotherapy 8a+ / S2 *** (Photo: Neil Gresham Collection)
Occams Razor 7c+ / S1 *** (Photo: Liam Cook)